Founded in 2014 by New York-based designer Sapna Shah, her partner Philippa Thorne, and social entrepreneur Zinhle Vilakati, Khokho Collection is an accessories line out of Eswatini (the country formerly known in English as Swaziland) that’s putting a distinctly modern and luxe spin on the classic basket bag. Named for the siSwati word for great grandmother, the brand’s ethos of preserving the spirit of traditional craft is inspired by powerful women from the past and the present, and is one that is guided by the teachings of their own mothers and grandmothers.

“Myself, Zinhle and Sapna, we all had this very strong connection to the women in our family,” Thorne tells us when we catch up with her over the phone. Shah, she says, first got into handcraft after becoming captivated by the quality and preciousness of her grandmother’s collection of handmade Indian saris, while Vilakati’s (a master weaver) passion was instilled in her by her mother and grandmother. “As for me,” Thorne continues, “my grandmother was really creative and eccentric, so she’s always inspired me to emulate that kind of individuality. All of it just came together to create a really authentic brand story.”

Characterised by subtle, muted colours of ivory, tan and beige, Khokho Collections’ designs are rendered in lutindzi grass—a sustainably harvested grass indigenous to Eswatini—and locally grown sisal fibre. Each bag is constructed using an ancient Swazi grass-weaving technique that combines this fabrication method with genuine, handcrafted leather. The durable and sturdy creations stand out from other standard woven styles thanks to their spiral-like appearance, sleek leather handles, and round forms. Featuring a canvas lining, Italian gold-tone hardware and South African vegetable-tanned leather, these touches collide to create an authentic expression of craftsmanship and design. And though the woven style is one many consider to be strictly for the summer, Khokho Collection’s sculptural take adds an air of sophistication that’ll serve its wearer right through the year. 

According to Thorne, the team views the landscape of Eswatini as an integral source of inspiration: “Our color palette really responds to the seasons we experience here and how we see natural shades emerge in the soil, flora and fauna. You can also see this in the contrasting textures: the rich leathers and the high end metallic hardware that we use creates this beautiful contrast when merged with the texture of the weaving.”

At the beginning of the Khokho Collection journey, Shah had been in the luxury fashion game as a handbag designer for over ten years, boasting a résumé that lists some of the biggest names in the business, including Calvin Klein, Coach, Oscar de la Renta, and Rag & Bone. But it was while searching for a new endeavour through which to challenge herself that she discovered Nest, an NGO that connects skilled professionals with artisans in emerging economies, providing them with support and facilitating the exchange of skills and education. It was a discovery that led to Shah packing her bags and heading to the Kingdom of Eswatini where she, Thorne and Vilakati would begin to build the Khokho Collection brand.

There, in the landlocked southern African country, the three set about bringing what was a shared vision to life. Vilakati, who trains local women in developing artisanal skills, was tasked with teaching a group of women different weaving techniques, while Thorne and Sapna set up a leather atelier for the construction of bags (they’d eventually bring in Italian craftsman, Carlo Bisceglia, to train graduates from the local upholstery college). Today, woven panels are made by the Buhleba Khokho Weaving Association and are constructed into handbags at the Khokho Atelier in Eswatini.