The Portuguese, Arab, and Indian inhabitants who settled in Mozambique because of colonization and immigration respectively, heavily influenced its culture. Trade by the Arabs and Portuguese brought fabrics that would revolutionize the region’s textile industry. The introduction of the capulana, a wax print design primarily used as a sarong, changed the history of fashion in Mozambique, and even with the influence of global trends and styles, the capulana has endured and become a modern staple.

Looking at the sartorial history of the country, the exodus of its colonial residents in 1975, namely the Portuguese, brought forth a new dawn for the country and, with that, a new set of challenges. Many textile factories shut down, and the existing ones faced rising wages, electricity, water and transport costs, and long delivery periods. Due to the shortage of quality local cotton, manufacturers relied on imported textiles. The surge of second-hand clothing also presented a problem as the country became overwhelmed with clothing imports from the Global North. Retailers could not compete with the exorbitantly low prices of “clothing of calamity,” which meant low profit for local businesses. This also translated into general consumption of clothes for convenience rather than style.

Beyond the textile industry, Mozambique was still trying to find its place in the global fashion ecosystem compounded by the lack of availability of trendy clothing which limited people’s freedom of expression and individuality. However, as the middle class grew and more local and foreign brands flourished, Mozambicans’ sense of style developed beyond the capulana. Now, a new generation of fashion enthusiasts is capitalizing on the country’s style renaissance, using their talents to penetrate the international fashion sphere and gain attention for their work. These six tastemakers are taking up the mantle by learning to navigate barriers such as the lack of infrastructure and access to a formal creative education. While some are pushing for improved local production, others seek to move the needle forward for the Mozambican creative industry. While Beyoncé featured luxury label Taibo Bacar on her website, stylist Luxury Recycle worked with a Grammy award-winning artist. Still, their hunger for change and commitment to redefining the possibilities perseveres. Read on to discover the individuals dedicated to establishing Mozambique as a creative beacon. 

Shaazia Adam

Designer
  

Fascinated by her grandmother’s friend’s ability to turn fabrics into eye-catching designs, Shaazia instinctively knew she wanted to be a designer. So, at the budding age of 16, Adam launched her eponymous label and moved to London to study Fashion and Apparel Design at Istituto Marangoni, further honing her skills. Through her studies and her time interning at Alexander McQueen, she realized how uninformed she was about the inner workings of an established brand. So, building upon her experiences, she relaunched her brand and transformed her modest label into a fully functioning fashion house.

With a specialization in bridal wear and haute couture, she spells the beginning of a new era of sophistication for the Mozambican fashion industry. Looking to the future and wanting to build affordable outlets for greener fashion, she chose to launch a completely new, ethically motivated brand called MINA that produces sustainable clothing made from natural fibers found in Mozambique. Now, Adam is a fundamental part of Mozambique’s new school of innovators.

Tatiana Ismael

Entrepreneur 
  

As the co-founder of Taibo Bacar, Mozambique’s largest and most successful fashion house, Tatiana Ismael has helped build a formidable brand. Today, she oversees the business side of the label.

Having had a passion for basketball, she reluctantly entered the fashion industry, initially failing to see how she could exist within its parameters. However, by putting on her administrative hat and allowing her partner, Taibo Bacar, to focus on the creative aspects, she changed the label’s trajectory from an atelier to a fully fledged company, proving that it takes a lot more than just its designer for a brand to thrive.

“As Africans, we manage to do so much with so little,” she says. Today, Taibo Bacar’s team comprises young creatives eager to use the label as a fundamental springboard. Ismael is a staunch believer in paying it forward and empowers her young team, giving them significant responsibility within the company and valuable insight into the workings of a growing brand.

King Levi

Influencer and Entrepreneur
  

When streetwear surged in popularity, King Levi moved against the tide and set his own pace, choosing instead to champion the modern gentleman's style. Brought up in a rural area, he never imagined himself living in some of the fashion capitals and being reposted on social media across the globe. Instead, he tells Industrie Africa, "How I dressed always felt normal [to me], but I always stood out." So when he temporarily moved to Morocco, he launched his footwear line, Vicious, and collaborated with several local designers, such as Nivaldo Theirry.

Eventually, he was inspired to start his modeling agency, KLD Agency, which trains models and empowers them with the necessary skills to break into the market. He also realized a significant lack of visibility for regional talent, so he created Fancy International Show, a series of fashion shows that hosted local designers. His shows provided a stage to highlight designers apart from the annual Mozambique Fashion Week. He reveals, "With my work, I want to touch communities and spark conversations that will stimulate change." King Levi shows how people can leverage their fame to uplift others and drive the industry forward through innovation and education. 

Eliana Murargy

Designer
  

Eliana Murargy has always had a creative eye. From graduating first in class at IESB (The Higher Education Institute of Brasilia) with a degree in Fashion Design to being the first Mozambican to debut at New York Fashion Week, Eliana Murargy’s eponymous label has already achieved a feat that many still dream of; a global audience.

Inspired by surrounding elements: a vast coastal landscape, vibrant colors, and an amalgamation of cultures from the country’s different regions, her clothes are infused with a rich history. A few years ago, she chose to put the brand on hold to focus on motherhood. However, in 2019, she became increasingly aware of the shifts in consumer demands regarding inclusion and sustainability. Therefore, after rebranding, she is focused on establishing a more ethical production chain without compromising quality.

Her label’s narrative is relatively straightforward: “a seasonless brand that does not follow trends but a collective belief of what is needed.” She does this by crafting garments from locally produced fabrics and equipping her staff with skills she has amassed throughout her career. This is particularly important considering Mozambique is among the many African nations with no tertiary education in fashion.

Luxury Recycle

Stylist
  

Luxury Recycle, an award-winning stylist, challenges societal norms in his work through authenticity and flamboyance. He reveals, “I always think outside of the box when I make my art, and I am not afraid of trying new concepts and taking risks.”

Born and raised in the capital city of Maputo, his curiosity about the fashion world began with his exposure to names like Tommy Hilfiger, Levi’s, and Guess from his trips to South Africa as a child. His professional styling symbolizes a fresh take on Mozambican fashion and is primarily focused on the capulana and kaftan prints but with a contemporary twist. His bold style choices and combinations of colors and accessories conjure up vivid imagery which certainly leave a lasting image.

Working with Nigerian superstar Burna Boy on his music video for the hit single Yaba Buluku, the young stylist used the opportunity to highlight local brands such as XADA BABA, Peças Unicas, and Modernisses. He has also dressed Angolan stars Pérola and Edmázia Mayembe, South African starlets Kelly Kumalo and Wanda Baloyi, among other celebrities. 

Like many of the country’s emerging creatives, he speaks on the pressing need for formal education, saying, “I think implementing fashion in schools and educating people about fashion would be great. We need to nurture the talent of this generation and the next.” 

Celso Zaqueu

Digital Creator
  

Born in China, Celso Zaqueu moved between Mozambique and the UK in his formative years. He studied Contemporary Media Practice at the University of Westminster, concentrating in music. However, his career took off in a very different path as he became Mozambique’s leading fashion photographer.

Drawing inspiration from celebrated photographers Jean-Paul Goude, Richard Avedon, Annie Leibovitz, Steven Meisel, and Mario Testino, Zaqueu often creates strong editorial images that play with striking colors and textures. Imaginative in his craft, he continuously pushes the envelope by defining his version of beauty by merging art with fashion. There is a distinct point before and after his emergence into the industry, leaving it forever-changed as Mozambique’s first high fashion photographer.

Featured on CNN’s African Voices, what sets Zaqueu apart is how he focuses on a specific feature in a frame, consequently amplifying everything around it. He has recently founded a progressive digital magazine, PLEISS, the first of its kind. “PLEISS is a visual manifesto that celebrates Mozambican culture and aims to contribute to the youth’s cultural expansion,” says Zaqueu.