From Studio 189 to Tokyo James, these are the six brands who stole the show at the recently concluded seasonal events.


By Lindsay Samson

Feb 24, 2021

Though this season’s edition of both New York and London Fashion featured just a handful of African designers, those that were included on the roster certainly did not disappoint. And, as has become the norm in the age of COVID-19, both events were entirely remote, with many on the lineup choosing to present their collections via both film and photography.

A sharp detour from the optimistic and spirited displays of the SS‘21 showings, the FW’21 presentations—which included both mens and womenswear—were more subdued; the colors employed much softer this time around, with brilliant shades being replaced with less obtrusive tones. And while a sense of escapism seemed to dominate last season, these latest collections feel far more rooted in realism, their practicality, elegance, simplicity pointing to a seamless entry into many a wardrobe.

New York Fashion Week

1.

Studio 189

united states / ghana


Entitled “Legacy”, Studio 189’s new FW'21 collection is a vibrant marriage of color, spellbinding prints, and expert craftsmanship, their principles of sustainability bolstered by the use of zero-waste materials, recycled materials, and patchworking. Presented via a short film that takes the viewer on a visually arresting trip through Accra, the Ghanaian brand, founded by Rosario Dawson and Erwiah Abrima, presented an offering which was inspired by traditional patterns and techniques interwoven into cloth, a practice said to communicate the brand’s values, history and legacy to future generations. In a 14-minute short during which energetic visuals are interspersed with shots of models weaving through the very factory where the garments are produced. The brand offers a taste of the architecture and cultures that form the essence of Studio 189’s aesthetic, the collection containing ample touches of Kente cloth (a Ghanaian textile made from brilliant, handwoven strips of silk and cotton) inspired embossing, as well as the geometric, hand-batiked prints that have become the brand’s signature. In some ways a follow up to their SS’21 collection’s theme of heritage (“the next piece of [heritage] is thinking about legacy” explains Erwiah), this season’s standout pieces of multi-hued, tiered skirts and classic button-downs rendered in a vibrant, patchwork style revealing an outstanding level of craftsmanship that will undoubtedly become the label’s legacy.


Watch it here.

 Studio 189 SS‘21. Photo: via NYFW.com

Studio 189 SS‘21. Photo: via NYFW.com

Studio 189 SS‘21. Photo: via NYFW.com

2.

Sukeina

United States / Senegal


Global fashion house Sukeina’s FW’21 womenswear collection epitomises ultra-feminine refinement, its handcrafted embroidery, detailed braiding, and vast color palette converging to create the label’s first fully realized ready-to-wear collection. Designed by Senegalese-born founder Omar Salam and entitled “Grace”, his latest offering encapsulates Sukeina’s progressive and innovative approach to design, its application of signature motifs of origami folds and embrace of informal luxury revealing its designer’s eye for elegance and a cognisance of the global shift towards functional fashion. Sculptural silhouettes and imaginative shapes are also a core element of the collection, with what would be simple styles elevated through the application of peplum shapes and voluminous ruffling. “Grace is the kindness that sustains and surrounds us,” states Salam of the story behind the thoroughly modern collection. “We have the opportunity of just being still and reconsidering and restructuring and questioning things and recognizing that while this has been a challenging season, it is also a once in a lifetime opportunity to create a compassionate world.” In a series of clean and unfussy lookbook images styled by French-Nigerian fashion editor Dimeji Alara, photographer Hyuna Shin’s lens captures Sukeina’s effortlessly sophisticated collection, one that builds on the label’s already established aesthetic foundation.


Watch it here.

Sukeina FW'21. Photo: Hyuna Shin Courtesy of Dimeji Alara

Sukeina FW'21. Photo: Hyuna Shin Courtesy of Dimeji Alara

Sukeina FW'21. Photo: Hyuna Shin Courtesy of Dimeji Alara

London Fashion Week

1.

Ahluwalia

united kingdom / Nigeria


Born in South London to a Nigerian father and a mother of Indian descent, Priya Ahluwalia is the creative driving force behind the eponymous menswear brand Ahluwalia, and a multifaceted artist whose photography practice often inspires her collections. In this case however, her FW’21 collection was inspired by African literature, including Yaa Gyasi’s 2016 historical novel Homecoming and Emmanuel Iduma’s A Stranger’s Pose. “The themes of the book span across family, migration and ancestry,” Ahluwalia told Another Magazine, adding that it led to her consideration of societal and cultural effects of migration, an idea that she says deeply influenced her FW '21 collection. Presented in a poetically stunningly shot short film called “Traces” that was directed by celebrated fashion and documentary filmmaker Stephen Isaac-Wilson, Ahluwalia’s rich, jewel-toned color palette and practical designs are captured inside a variety of ornate settings and set to the sweet saxophone sounds of London musician Cktrl. Warm lighting illuminates the hybridised garments which include patchwork and bamboo silk buttons-ups, jumpers constructed from repurposed knitwear, and graphic emblazoned pieces inspired by migration maps of the world.


Watch it here.

Ahluwalia FW'21. Photo: Laurence Ellis

Ahluwalia FW'21. Photo: Laurence Ellis

Ahluwalia FW'21. Photo: Laurence Ellis

2.

Olubiyi Thomas

United Kingdom / Nigeria


Revealed via an atmospheric short film that follows a troupe of mysterious characters through a dense forest environment, the Lagos-born, Glasgow-raised, and now London-based Olubiyi Thomas’ AW’21 collection is a somber yet expressive one, its focus on high-quality materials and deconstructed yet simple silhouettes divulging a reverence for both a minimalist design aesthetic and layered styling. Directed by Toby Buchan and featuring both Thomas’ menswear and womenswear pieces, the film entitled “Future Highlander”, sees a group of models embodying the designer’s garments—which include oversized knitwear, classic checkered prints, and oversized matching sets—with a sense of poise and grace, its designers’ dual heritage serving as a deep source of inspiration for his work. “Our protagonist exists in multiple dimensions, salvaging the off-cuts of their environment to recreate their future identity,” Thomas explains of the rich narrative that forms the backdrop of his presentation which centres around the idea of survival, and explores how that translates to the future of fashion. Recently shortlisted for the British Fashion Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund award, Thomas’ penchant for tailored silhouettes and traditional textiles is palatable in his latest offering, its top-tier craftsmanship matched only by its sheer wearability.


Watch it here.

Olubiyi Thomas FW'21. Photo: Tobby Burchan.

Olubiyi Thomas FW'21. Photo: Tobby Burchan.

Olubiyi Thomas FW'21. Photo: Tobby Burchan.

3.

Pepper Row

Nigeria


Emerging as the winner of this year’s Fashion Scout (an international consultancy and platform for nurturing, empowering and showcasing the future of fashion) One to Watch Award, Nigerian label Pepper Row brought a splash of vibrant color and youthful verve to London Fashion Week with a collection of eccentric styles emblazoned with striking illustrations created via methods of upcycling to support their zero-waste policy. The two year-old Omafume Niemogha-founded brand’s FW '21 collection is titled "Unmasked', and in a 3-minute long short film that was partly inspired by the #EndSars Movement and the solidarity shown by Nigerian youth during the turbulent period, Pepper Row’s bold and experimental designs come alive against striking shots of Lagos. Featuring touches of raffia, a candy-like color palette, and distinctly feminine silhouettes, the film follows a troupe of models as they board a danfo (Nigerian minibus taxis that serve as an affordable means of transport), ultimately unveiling the metaphorical masks they wear to fit into societal norms and expectations through garments that proudly standout.


Watch it here.

Unmasked FW'21, Pepper Row.

4.

Tokyo James

Nigeria / United Kingdom


A collection that boasts sharp tailoring, luxe knitwear, and smatterings of leather, the eponymous brand of Nigerian-British Designer Tokyo James took on London Fashion Week with the signature subversion of traditional ideas of masculinity that they’ve become known for. Taking inspiration from his Yoruba heritage and culture, as well as Nigeria's 'Eyo Masquerade’ festival, James’ range—which is entitled “OGIDI OKUNRIN”, meaning “The Strong Man”—was presented in a short that quite literally burns bright: models move about a somewhat plain setting in the designer’s dapper, textured garments, while computer-generated depictions of flames engulf both the backdrop and the models. The very same collection James showed at January's Milan Men’s Fashion Week, his designs feature unexpectedly playful touches, the application of glittering sequins, daring cutouts, and exaggerated sleeves emerging as prominent elements. Shades of brilliant blue, earthy browns, and classic black dominate the Lagos-produced offering, it’s designer’s inclusion of eccentric top hats and bags rendered in fun, experimental silhouettes conveying a spirit of defiant exuberance.


Watch it here.

Tokyo James FW'21. Photo: via @tokyojamess

Tokyo James FW'21. Photo: via @tokyojamess

Tokyo James FW'21. Photo: via @tokyojamess