London Fashion Week

1.

Ahluwalia

united kingdom / Nigeria

Born in South London to a Nigerian father and a mother of Indian descent, Priya Ahluwalia is the creative driving force behind the eponymous menswear brand Ahluwalia, and a multifaceted artist whose photography practice often inspires her collections. In this case however, her FW’21 collection was inspired by African literature, including Yaa Gyasi’s 2016 historical novel Homecoming and Emmanuel Iduma’s A Stranger’s Pose. “The themes of the book span across family, migration and ancestry,” Ahluwalia told Another Magazine, adding that it led to her consideration of societal and cultural effects of migration, an idea that she says deeply influenced her FW '21 collection. Presented in a poetically stunningly shot short film called “Traces” that was directed by celebrated fashion and documentary filmmaker Stephen Isaac-Wilson, Ahluwalia’s rich, jewel-toned color palette and practical designs are captured inside a variety of ornate settings and set to the sweet saxophone sounds of London musician Cktrl. Warm lighting illuminates the hybridised garments which include patchwork and bamboo silk buttons-ups, jumpers constructed from repurposed knitwear, and graphic emblazoned pieces inspired by migration maps of the world.

Watch it here.

2.

Olubiyi Thomas

United Kingdom / Nigeria

Revealed via an atmospheric short film that follows a troupe of mysterious characters through a dense forest environment, the Lagos-born, Glasgow-raised, and now London-based Olubiyi Thomas’ AW’21 collection is a somber yet expressive one, its focus on high-quality materials and deconstructed yet simple silhouettes divulging a reverence for both a minimalist design aesthetic and layered styling. Directed by Toby Buchan and featuring both Thomas’ menswear and womenswear pieces, the film entitled “Future Highlander”, sees a group of models embodying the designer’s garments—which include oversized knitwear, classic checkered prints, and oversized matching sets—with a sense of poise and grace, its designers’ dual heritage serving as a deep source of inspiration for his work. “Our protagonist exists in multiple dimensions, salvaging the off-cuts of their environment to recreate their future identity,” Thomas explains of the rich narrative that forms the backdrop of his presentation which centres around the idea of survival, and explores how that translates to the future of fashion. Recently shortlisted for the British Fashion Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund award, Thomas’ penchant for tailored silhouettes and traditional textiles is palatable in his latest offering, its top-tier craftsmanship matched only by its sheer wearability.

Watch it here.

3.

Pepper Row

Nigeria

Emerging as the winner of this year’s Fashion Scout (an international consultancy and platform for nurturing, empowering and showcasing the future of fashion) One to Watch Award, Nigerian label Pepper Row brought a splash of vibrant color and youthful verve to London Fashion Week with a collection of eccentric styles emblazoned with striking illustrations created via methods of upcycling to support their zero-waste policy. The two year-old Omafume Niemogha-founded brand’s FW '21 collection is titled "Unmasked', and in a 3-minute long short film that was partly inspired by the #EndSars Movement and the solidarity shown by Nigerian youth during the turbulent period, Pepper Row’s bold and experimental designs come alive against striking shots of Lagos. Featuring touches of raffia, a candy-like color palette, and distinctly feminine silhouettes, the film follows a troupe of models as they board a danfo (Nigerian minibus taxis that serve as an affordable means of transport), ultimately unveiling the metaphorical masks they wear to fit into societal norms and expectations through garments that proudly standout.

Watch it here.

4.

Tokyo James

Nigeria / United Kingdom

A collection that boasts sharp tailoring, luxe knitwear, and smatterings of leather, the eponymous brand of Nigerian-British Designer Tokyo James took on London Fashion Week with the signature subversion of traditional ideas of masculinity that they’ve become known for. Taking inspiration from his Yoruba heritage and culture, as well as Nigeria's 'Eyo Masquerade’ festival, James’ range—which is entitled “OGIDI OKUNRIN”, meaning “The Strong Man”—was presented in a short that quite literally burns bright: models move about a somewhat plain setting in the designer’s dapper, textured garments, while computer-generated depictions of flames engulf both the backdrop and the models. The very same collection James showed at January's Milan Men’s Fashion Week, his designs feature unexpectedly playful touches, the application of glittering sequins, daring cutouts, and exaggerated sleeves emerging as prominent elements. Shades of brilliant blue, earthy browns, and classic black dominate the Lagos-produced offering, it’s designer’s inclusion of eccentric top hats and bags rendered in fun, experimental silhouettes conveying a spirit of defiant exuberance.

Watch it here.